G43x upgrade.

[CPJ 2.0]

New trigger shoe. I was persuaded by someone who’s screen name rhymes with “got fun hooters 3” during our recent motor scooter adventure. Since I’m easily influenced and had a bit of a refund from Amazon, a screw up in my favor…I hit the buy button.

Ain’t cheap, but worth the money.

https://overwatchprecision.com/dat-shoe ... for-glock/


That’s not the one SS3 had, his has another little dingus on the bottom, and was a few bucks more. Didn’t realize the difference when I ordered, but oh well. I dig this one. They also make the same one I got in plastic, and it’s much cheaper. I’ll eventually order one for my 19 clone.

https://overwatchprecision.com/polydat- ... for-glock/



They have multiple options, shoe only, shoe attached to a trigger bar, fancy trigger bars, etc. I opted for the shoe only because Saint Gaston has commanded “thou shall not eff with Glock internal parts, lest ye be plagued with issues. “

This supposedly reduces pre-travel by 20%, but I can’t confirm or deny. Didn’t bother checking. But, flats where it’s at. Much more comfortable. The dingus moves back flush with the trigger face, unlike the factory where it stands proud and pokes your digit.

[Justsomedude]

Damn you to hell. Now I have to get one for my 26 clone. Shortening the pretravel makes all the difference, especially in striker fire guns. I also just got a stainless barrel and reamed it to my wildcat round. It's amazing how nice of a barrel I got for 19.95! That trigger will make it somewhat less ugly.

20250821_141143.jpg (3.54 MiB) Viewed 978 times

[Bigslug]

I never flattened the tip of my finger with a hammer, so curved triggers are still OK for me. All my milsurp rifles have two-stage triggers, so pre-travel, NBD. Last I checked, the Glock trigger dingus is not made from an X-Acto knife blade, so I guess I'm good there too. It is, as they say, your money and your pistol, so have fun.

But If you want to go down the lawyerized avoidance of non-factory parts rabbit hole though, there's a fair argument to be made that the Glock trigger dingus is a factory safety feature, and swapping it out constitutes removing a factory safety. Since the trigger shoe pivots on the trigger pin, there's also a consideration of whether or not an aftermarket one - in "reducing pre-travel" - is holding the trigger bar further to the rear when the pistol is at rest, which would potentially get your other internal safeties closer to disengagement than they would otherwise be. Is the firing pin safety now lifted while the trigger is at rest? Is the horizontal "cruciform" portion of the trigger bar any closer to falling out of it's drop safety slot than with the factory shoe? Not saying yours does any of this, but I'd like to drop a lot of these aftermarket goodies into a factory cutaway gun to see what is actually happening inside.

Just sayin'. . .on a 1911, changing out the trigger for "feels" is merely replacing the button you push to actuate the parts that actually make the loud noise; on a Glock, there's a little more going on.

[Wambli Ska]

Interesting…. I do like flat triggers as I discovered during my personal brief stray into the P365 world. Not enough to outfit all my carry guns with them but it made the Sig, already a very good gun feel even better. Need to think on this.

[CPJ 2.0]

I never flattened the tip of my finger with a hammer, so curved triggers are still OK for me. All my milsurp rifles have two-stage triggers, so pre-travel, NBD. Last I checked, the Glock trigger dingus is not made from an X-Acto knife blade, so I guess I'm good there too. It is, as they say, your money and your pistol, so have fun.

But If you want to go down the lawyerized avoidance of non-factory parts rabbit hole though, there's a fair argument to be made that the Glock trigger dingus is a factory safety feature, and swapping it out constitutes removing a factory safety. Since the trigger shoe pivots on the trigger pin, there's also a consideration of whether or not an aftermarket one - in "reducing pre-travel" - is holding the trigger bar further to the rear when the pistol is at rest, which would potentially get your other internal safeties closer to disengagement than they would otherwise be. Is the firing pin safety now lifted while the trigger is at rest? Is the horizontal "cruciform" portion of the trigger bar any closer to falling out of it's drop safety slot than with the factory shoe? Not saying yours does any of this, but I'd like to drop a lot of these aftermarket goodies into a factory cutaway gun to see what is actually happening inside.

Just sayin'. . .on a 1911, changing out the trigger for "feels" is merely replacing the button you push to actuate the parts that actually make the loud noise; on a Glock, there's a little more going on.

This still has a dingus. And I’d wager (without it in my hand) the actual travel on the dingus itself is longer than factory.

Safety is not lifted, from what I can tell. But I’ll have a closer look. I don’t really know if it DOES reduce pre travel, it may be marketing wank to lure in buyers. Which isn’t relevant to me anyhow. I wanted a flat trigger without a protruding dingus. Which is easily accomplished from the factory. But Glock.

Look. We know you’re a cro-magnon man with hairy knuckles, but some of prefer comfortable triggers.

Snobbish primadonnas? Yes. We love it. We scoff at milsurp triggers and those that adore them.


“Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!

[CPJ 2.0]

I never flattened the tip of my finger with a hammer, so curved triggers are still OK for me. All my milsurp rifles have two-stage triggers, so pre-travel, NBD. Last I checked, the Glock trigger dingus is not made from an X-Acto knife blade, so I guess I'm good there too. It is, as they say, your money and your pistol, so have fun.

But If you want to go down the lawyerized avoidance of non-factory parts rabbit hole though, there's a fair argument to be made that the Glock trigger dingus is a factory safety feature, and swapping it out constitutes removing a factory safety. Since the trigger shoe pivots on the trigger pin, there's also a consideration of whether or not an aftermarket one - in "reducing pre-travel" - is holding the trigger bar further to the rear when the pistol is at rest, which would potentially get your other internal safeties closer to disengagement than they would otherwise be. Is the firing pin safety now lifted while the trigger is at rest? Is the horizontal "cruciform" portion of the trigger bar any closer to falling out of it's drop safety slot than with the factory shoe? Not saying yours does any of this, but I'd like to drop a lot of these aftermarket goodies into a factory cutaway gun to see what is actually happening inside.

Just sayin'. . .on a 1911, changing out the trigger for "feels" is merely replacing the button you push to actuate the parts that actually make the loud noise; on a Glock, there's a little more going on.

This still has a dingus. And I’d wager (without it in my hand) the actual travel on the dingus itself is longer than factory.

Safety is not lifted, from what I can tell. But I’ll have a closer look. I don’t really know if it DOES reduce pre travel, it may be marketing wank to lure in buyers. Which isn’t relevant to me anyhow. I wanted a flat trigger without a protruding dingus. Which is easily accomplished from the factory. But Glock.

Look. We know you’re a cro-magnon man with hairy knuckles, but some of prefer comfortable triggers.

Snobbish primadonnas? Yes. We love it. We scoff at milsurp triggers and those that adore them.


“Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!”

[Justsomedude]

Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

[Wambli Ska]

Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

Actually the one thing I noticed was that it allowed me to put my trigger finger (start my trigger press) lower on the trigger which as you said increases the distance to the fulcrum point and makes for a lighter and smoother press. Of course they’ll be different opinions on it but that just physics.

[CPJ 2.0]

Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

Actually the one thing I noticed was that it allowed me to put my trigger finger (start my trigger press) lower on the trigger which as you said increases the distance to the fulcrum point and makes for a lighter and smoother press. Of course they’ll be different opinions on it but that just physics.

Takes up less room also. Which isn’t a horrible issue for me with tiny -ish digits, but the more room the more better.

[shotgunshooter3]

As a side note, if you do buy the unit with a trigger bar, Overwatch Precision uses OEM trigger bars that are NP3 coated. Same story if you buy their entire fire control assembly.

Anyway, its on my list to order a trigger unit for my G34, I just haven't done it yet. I've had the TAC unit on my G19 for about 5 years, and 4-5K rounds or so, without issue.

[Wambli Ska]

Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

Actually the one thing I noticed was that it allowed me to put my trigger finger (start my trigger press) lower on the trigger which as you said increases the distance to the fulcrum point and makes for a lighter and smoother press. Of course they’ll be different opinions on it but that just physics.

Takes up less room also. Which isn’t a horrible issue for me with tiny -ish digits, but the more room the more better.

Yep. I don’t have huge hands so anything that will shorten the distance I have to cover to get a good trigger press works well for me.

[shotgunshooter3]

“Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!

Ironically, every Garand I've shot and owned (two CMP examples) has had a GREAT trigger. Likewise for the M1A.

[CPJ 2.0]

“Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!

Ironically, every Garand I've shot and owned (two CMP examples) has had a GREAT trigger. Likewise for the M1A.

What did you say in the hotel room the other day? Tastes vary?

[Justsomedude]

Just incase anyone's curious, I didnt even realize Timney made triggers for Glocks until a customer brought one in to have it installed. It was the whole assembly, front and rear. The sear assembly was even held in by a tiny allen head IIRC. It was by far the lightest and shortest pull AND reset I've ever felt in a Glock.

Here it is
https://timneytriggers.com/alpha-compet ... k-gen-3-4/