Engine refresh

[Jay]

All this discussion about correct parts brought to mind the JC Whitney catalogs of yore.
1938-1969 fits all*

*with adapter plate

The first engine I built was a Chevy smallblock using a re-ring kit and Wolverine Blue Racer cam from a JC Whitney catalog. Pre internet days. I was 14 years old. I decided to advance the cam 4 degrees. But got the timing marks wrong and bent every intake valve when I first tried to start it. Tore it back down, replaced all the intake valves and timed the cam straight up. Ran great after that..

[Jay]

Now, many years later, I installed the cam in my current engine straight up.. they’re usually ground with 4 degrees advance in them anyway. And it’s a 400hp engine…. No need to mess around and find out.

With flat tappet cams, there’s a trend of lifter failure, wiping cam lobes out and destroying the engine. Seems to boil down to 3 things. Metallurgy, oil and break in. Cam and lifter metallurgy has gone down hill. Most common off the shelf oils don’t have zddp additives needed for proper flat tappet break in and use. A good break in oil is needed. Then follow a good break in procedure. Usually something like 30 minutes at 2000 rpm, varying rpm throughout to get oil splash on the cam and lifters.

I’m trying tech. Bought a nitrided cam and “DLC” lifters. Basically a very slick and very hard carbon coating. It wasn’t cheap. But still cheaper than a roller cam setup.

Keep these things in mind as you build your engine…

[Varmintmist]

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Ok, got into it after lunch again
Pwr steering off, right side pipe, starter out, fuel lines, pipe u bolts. alternator.


Little coffee break and figure out next thing.

[Jay]

I’d be curious to know the casting number on those heads when you get a valve cover off.

[Jay]

That motor looks nice and clean. It’s obviously been apart before. At least the intake manifold has been off. Something with that kind of age, seems logical.

[CPJ 2.0]

That motor looks nice and clean.

It’s gots then double hump heads. Probably a 3/4 race cam. Most likely the front tire can clear a Coke can at launch.

[Jay]

That motor looks nice and clean.

It’s gots then double hump heads. Probably a 3/4 race cam. Most likely the front tire can clear a Coke can at launch.

Yeah. That’s what made me curious about the casting numbers. There are multiple different casting numbers for the “camel hump” heads.

That motor looks very clean and somebody has been into it before. The crank pulley bolt has overspray on it and the intake was installed with RTV on the china wall instead of the rubber china wall gaskets, which should always immediately go in the trash can. Kinda makes me wonder how much freshening up that motor needs.

[Jay]

Also, my motor also had those exact same Corvette valve covers on it. I sold those, the intake, cam and lifters to help fund the new stuff.

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[Jay]

Looking at it again, mine was actually a little earlier intake manifold. Still had the hole for the old style oil fill tube, which was blocked off with a plug. I think it was mid 60s or so they did away with the oil fill hole on the front of the intake. The pad is still cast, but no hole.

[Jay]

Cam swap.

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[Varmintmist]

That motor looks very clean and somebody has been into it before. The crank pulley bolt has overspray on it and the intake was installed with RTV on the china wall instead of the rubber china wall gaskets, which should always immediately go in the trash can. Kinda makes me wonder how much freshening up that motor needs.

Enough to keep the oil inside and not passing the rings, although its a benefit during mosquito season. Its also 56 years old so it may have gone round once.

It may have been into, but it also sat. Much of the look is what to me looks like a "looks pretty" coat. Not the only thing like that.

Rotella has the zinc in enough PPM.

[jbp-ohio]

Someone probably put hardened vavle seats in it once leaded gas went away.

[Jay]

That motor looks very clean and somebody has been into it before. The crank pulley bolt has overspray on it and the intake was installed with RTV on the china wall instead of the rubber china wall gaskets, which should always immediately go in the trash can. Kinda makes me wonder how much freshening up that motor needs.

Enough to keep the oil inside and not passing the rings, although its a benefit during mosquito season. Its also 56 years old so it may have gone round once.

It may have been into, but it also sat. Much of the look is what to me looks like a "looks pretty" coat. Not the only thing like that.

Rotella has the zinc in enough PPM.

Looked like a little leaking at the front china wall. Obviously can’t see much more. Very well could be a rattle can rebuild. And JBOhio brings up a great point. It’s pretty likely it had hardened exhaust valve seats put in at some point.

Rotella works. It’s what I put in the old motor in my C10, just to play with it. If doing a new cam and lifters, I’d probably go with a dedicated break in oil. Or at least conventional oil with a break in additive. Flat tappet cams aren’t what they used to be. They’re going flat at a pretty dumb rate. Mobil has their Classic line of oil that has the ZDDP additives in it for operational use. I still personally wouldn’t use that for cam break in. But strongly considering running it after break in. I’ll use Comp Cams break in oil to break in my cam. Even with the nitrided cam lobes and DLC lifters.

[Jay]

Also, in my little bit of understanding on motor oils, it’s not just the zinc. It’s the detergents that are mandatory for certain certifications that essentially cancel out the properties of the zinc and phosphorus additive package. Pretty much, those additives are there to form a microscopic film of lubrication on metal parts. The detergents they have to put in works to break down that barrier. So, they fight each other. I believe oils like the Mobil Classic and aftermarket oils aren’t API certified, because they don’t include the required level of detergent additives.

Rotella has detergent additives. It’s not just about the level of zinc. It’s about the additive package in the oil and how it works together.

[Varmintmist]

Just a bit more.
Pulled the carb and some more wires and vac off, dropped the left pipe off the manifold, then stared at the transmission for a while.

No rush, I am awaiting parts for the engine stand. I got it for 8 bucks at an auction. That and I have no idea about what I am doing makes the lack of speed OK.

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[CPJ 2.0]

Ditch the points distributor for an HEI.

[Varmintmist]

Ok, t day, family toys for tots and MCL presentations later..............

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Driveshaft is off, all the transmission linkage, wires cables, got some fresh grade 8's and connected the crane and pulled the engine mount bolts, still need to pull a couple on the trans

[Varmintmist]

Worked out this AM. Put the coveralls on, jacked the transmission and pulled 8 bolts from the transmission mount and heat shield, and away we went. Only had one thing still fastened so I did OK with merely slight blood loss. Getting a call from the rebuild shop in an hour. I know my limitations.

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[jbp-ohio]

Rattle canned that thing in the car did they?

[Varmintmist]

Rattle canned that thing in the car did they?

Yep. Like I said, good from far but far from good. Now I can go wild in the engine bay.

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[Chiro1989]

whispers- *427*

[CPJ 2.0]

whispers- *427*

Shouts -*turbo LS*

[Varmintmist]

the whispers are drowned out by the cash flow over the desire waterfall and the shout is over ridden by an "I'm not gay" horn.

My great uncle had a 69 with a 427 dual quads. He said he loved it and it would go like hell, but it took a quarter tank of fuel to back out of the driveway. Not really my thing, but if you have a free 427 with a 6pack delivered by a hot blonde, I'll consider it
Pretty sure I have said it before, its a driver. I want it as a driver.

Mine aint real long but it has been quite productive with no complaints. Have no desire to make it bigger.

Good conversation with the shop that is going to do the work. It goes in mid Jan. He shot a pic on his way out. I think its in good hands.

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[Chiro1989]

Maybe the Mods will show some Christmas spirit and get the Swedish Bikini Team out of the hot tub and make a beer and 427 run to your garage.

[Justsomedude]

I just learned a hard lesson in restoring my 1986 Kawasaki ZX600r Ninja. Pulled the engine apart to rebuild and found all 8 intake valves severely cupped, so bad that they couldn't be reground. It amazed me that the bike ran as good as it did before I tore it down.

Thought I'd just find some new valves. Pfft... made specific for that year make and model. Tried to match some up by length and stem diameter but that wasn't even happening.

I FINALLY lucked out by finding all 8, brand new/old stock on ebay but from 5 separate sellers, one of which sold 3 of them to me from South Korea. I paid alot in shipping and import but I'll be able to do it right at least.