3D printed chassis.

[CPJ 2.0]

Whipped up a chassis for my old crusty Savage Mark 2. The original design was made for an accutrigger model.
Mine isn’t that.
So, I made the changes and made some prints to test the changes. Ended up with this. Not done, but very close.

[CPJ 2.0]

This was printed upside down, so the printer adds support material to the bed so that that it can support the print as it arches over.
This could have came out in one piece had I done it correctly.

[CPJ 2.0]

Rear looks like ass. Something with the support isn’t bueno.
So I sanded it. It will work for a test bed.

[CPJ 2.0]

Printing in pieces is an excellent way to get around using support, and makes for better prints when the part is in an ideal position. Just add features to key them together.

[CPJ 2.0]

“Hahahaha! Bet it won’t be around like grandpas gun from the Great Depression that filled our pots with squirrels and armadillos! Better not leave it in the sun!”

[Justsomedude]

Looks good. What was the print time? Also, I had support issues like that and it turned out that my base layer was too high so they didn't adhere everywhere they should have.

[PFD45]

Very interesting pictures and progress report.

Making 2 pieces and attaching them later would seem to make sense.

[CPJ 2.0]

Looks good. What was the print time? Also, I had support issues like that and it turned out that my base layer was too high so they didn't adhere everywhere they should have.

5 ish hours.

That’s like 20 in Ender time.


Not sure what’s the deal with the support, everything *should* be fine.

I sanded it smooth-ish. It’ll work forever, or till I re print it.

[CPJ 2.0]

Very interesting pictures and progress report.

Making 2 pieces and attaching them later would seem to make sense.

Say you print a coffee cup. You want it vertical. Like the cup sets. The print head just spirals around pooping out plastic in a circle and gets higher with each turn.

But lay it horizontal, and there has to be support material what for it to print upon. And it WONT be round. may work for some things, but not this. Hence the two pieces.

[Justsomedude]

Looks good. What was the print time? Also, I had support issues like that and it turned out that my base layer was too high so they didn't adhere everywhere they should have.

5 ish hours.

That’s like 20 in Ender time.

Damn, that's hauling.

[CPJ 2.0]

Looks good. What was the print time? Also, I had support issues like that and it turned out that my base layer was too high so they didn't adhere everywhere they should have.

5 ish hours.

That’s like 20 in Ender time.

Damn, that's hauling.

It’s STUPID to watch it move.
And it makes good prints. Not just fast prints.

I made some M Lok hardware also. Not exact, but it works. Don’t have a 10-24 tap on hand to chase the threads, so I’ll just dial the fit in with software.

[Justsomedude]

That's a really good thread print. I've yet to print any threads but read that layer height is the difference between good and bad ones. Your printer does a helluva job but I don't know that I could justify changing out what I have for now. You ought to look into printing the stronger materials, mostly just because I wanna know how it handles them

[Gila]

Whipped up a chassis for my old crusty Savage Mark 2. The original design was made for an accutrigger model.
Mine isn’t that.
So, I made the changes and made some prints to test the changes. Ended up with this. Not done, but very close.

What's your helper there up to?

[CPJ 2.0]

That's a really good thread print. I've yet to print any threads but read that layer height is the difference between good and bad ones. Your printer does a helluva job but I don't know that I could justify changing out what I have for now. You ought to look into printing the stronger materials, mostly just because I wanna know how it handles them

This is carbon fiber PLA.

Handles it with ease.



Layer height helps, but I just walked the thread diameters out by .008 software. The software makes it exactly what you draw. The printer is of course gonna squirt what it squirts, but not exact. Making them a bit big allows for that.

I’ve done 1/2-28 threads that threaded on. They were tight, but they went. That’s without any tweaking.

[CPJ 2.0]

Whipped up a chassis for my old crusty Savage Mark 2. The original design was made for an accutrigger model.
Mine isn’t that.
So, I made the changes and made some prints to test the changes. Ended up with this. Not done, but very close.

What's your helper there up to?

She was supervising.

Now she’s on security detail.

[Japhy]

CPJ that is nice work! From design to the end product

[CPJ 2.0]

CPJ that is nice work! From design to the end product

Thanks, but I can’t take full credit. At least for 98% of it, the actual functional part. The original model had a 1913 rail on the back what for clamping a folding stock. I had carbon fiber tube, so I made that design change.
Butt plate is cooking as we type.

[Zee]

Well done.

[CPJ 2.0]

I need to repaint the metal, but that’s a project for another year. This guns purpose is for small furry things what go bump in the night.

[Zorba]

DAYUM that's impressive!

[Diver43]

That is pretty Kool. Will the product hold up to larger calibers?

[CPJ 2.0]

That is pretty Kool. Will the product hold up to larger calibers?

.223, certainly.

Anything larger? Meeeeehhhhh not so sure.

Ive pondered it.

[breamfisher]

That rifle would look much better with a wood stock and proper scope...

[CPJ 2.0]

IMG_0198.png (483.43 KiB) Viewed 3767 times

[Chiro1989]

That will work. Is the stock permanently anchored or take downish?