Thermal scopes

[N454casull]

I know there’s some people on here who have one, so I’m looking into one for a Christmas present to myself lol.

Recommendations?

[Ernie]

Budget?

[N454casull]

Let’s say $5k but I’m absolutely willing to spend less if there’s something that is quality. Also just out of curiosity I’d like to hear all the budget options.

[GrapeApe]

I have a bottom shelf ATN that was an Optics planet exclusive. Not a fan
It's marketed as a Thor but has none of the options you'll find on a "regular" Thor

[Gila]

My AGM Raptor ran me just under $3K...

[Zee]

I run a Pulsar Thermion 2 XP-50 Pro. Really do love it.

[Orchidman]

I run a Pulsar Thermion 2 XP-50 Pro. Really do love it.

Ditto from me...

[Jay]

I run a Pulsar Thermion 2 XP-50 Pro. Really do love it.

I have the same scope, but with the laser rangefinder. Love it, so far.

Here you go. Not gonna beat the price for what you get..
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1027118931?pid=195414

[N454casull]

Is the laser rangefinder worth the extra?

[CPJ 2.0]

Is the laser rangefinder worth the extra?

Not having one, I’d say yes.

I’m forced to set up a max point blank range, and squeak every last FPS out of my ar because I can’t tell the range in the dark. (I have a cheap $1000 ATN)
That way I know I’m good to X, by holding dead center. I just have to set up sort of knowing where X is located. OnX app helps a ton, with its range finding feature.

If you don’t ever expect to shoot far enough where you have to know the range, I’d skip it. But if you have the budget…

[Orchidman]

Is the laser rangefinder worth the extra?

Depends on where you will use it. I have the model with the rangefinder.
On the horse farm I very rarely use the rangefinder as I know, through familiarity with the property, what range critturs are at when I see them. The rangefinder does come in handy when doing pest control on new properties however esp on smaller animals like rabbits/possums etc...
Its also handy when the thermal is on my T1X .22 and I am using subsonic ammo...Sighted in at 70m I can hit small animals out to double that range if I know how far it is most times.....

[N454casull]

I run a Pulsar Thermion 2 XP-50 Pro. Really do love it.

That’s the one I’ve been looking at a lot. I’m leaning towards if your going to spend that much money, spend that much money and get the top bells and whistles.

[Jay]

I haven’t hunted with mine much yet. I just got it a few months ago and have only taken it out coyote hunting once so far. Coyotes aren’t very active here this time of year. Where I usually hunt, I can definitely see the rangefinder being helpful. I’d say, if the cartridge and rifle you’re using could start needing extra elevation at the distances you can foresee shooting, the LRF is definitely worth it. CPJ made a great point and one that definitely swayed me. Without a lot of experience, and if you don’t have a handheld thermal rangefinder or really know the area you’re hunting, it’s really difficult to tell distances at night. You’re basically looking at a video image on a small screen. It’s not the same as hunting during the day, with a scope that’s giving you an image of what you’re actually looking at. Example, if I was to take my phone and record a black and white video of a coyote at 213 yards, then go to your house and show you the video without saying anything, how well could you tell the distance just by looking at the video? Especially if there’s any zoom involved.

Here’s what I’ve learned in the short while I’ve been playing and hunting with thermals. Having had awesome friends who let me play with theirs. All the while knowing that they were forcing me to buy one..

I think the number one key is the quality of the thermal image. The higher the resolution and image quality, the better. And price goes up accordingly. The cheaper thermals will almost always be lower resolution and image quality. They still work and will still show you a thermal image, but be pixelated. It can make a difference in being able to clearly identify what you’re looking at. Is it a pig, or a calf?…. It also limits your effective range, to an extent.

The main reason I posted the link to the LRF model is, that’s a $6,000+ scope for $4,200. I paid $4,500 for mine, also refurbished. A buddy of mine bought the same one. Compare the price between a new XP50 Pro and this one. You’d pretty much be spending a couple hundred more for the LRF function. At that price, why not? The actual rangefinder doesn’t add much extra bulk or weight.

The function of the rangefinder not only gives the distance to target, but will put your aim point on the reticle for the distance. That relies on having good ballistic info programmed into the scope.

Our experience with the refurbished models; Both of ours came in the factory boxes, like new. The battery and all the accessories were brand new and packaged in their original plastic bags. There was absolutely no evidence of scope ring marks on the tubes, no scratches, no signs of wear. This leads me to a couple of conclusions. Either Pulsar completely replaces the scope body and puts brand new stuff in the box with them when they refurbish, or the scopes were used as displays or for exhibition and never actually used on a gun. I believe the second theory. Either way, we’ve bought two of them and both appeared to be brand new in the box and have worked perfectly so far. And they’re $300 cheaper now than they were a few months ago. That right there pays for the LRF function…

[Zsarvashere]

I have an AGM Rattler TC 35-384. I wanted something that I can move back and forth between rifles. I have not shot with it yet, but I have moved it between rifles and it is easy to do so. I have nothing to compare it with as it is the first thermal I ever purchased or have used. It seems to work well to me, but for all I know it could be worthless next to something nicer. I do have a coyote coming around so maybe I will be able to give it a live fire test in the next few months.

[Orchidman]

Buy quality QR rings and a torque wrench. that way you can transfer it between rifles. I currently have mine set up for 3 rifles...T3x in 243, T1x in 17HMR and a T1x in .22.
Have culled deer with all 3 rifles while doing pest control. Just have to remember which program each rifle is zeroed in for....Bought a label maker......Labels on the rifle stocks remind me now

[CPJ 2.0]

Another hat tip to the LRF, as Jay mentioned you’re looking at a TV screen. With one eye. You need both eyes to perceive depth, aka range.
Side note, you must leave open your “other” eye or your ability to see in the dark gets JACKED when looking through a thermal. Bright in one eye, squat in the other and your pupils are 180 from each other. And, it helps to be able to see trees etc in the background in order to tell what direction you are pointed.
It makes sense when you look through one

[CPJ 2.0]

And a personal preference….
All scopes will switch between white hot, black hot, etc.
I prefer white hot. Reason is, the screen is darker overall because anything not hot, is black. It’s easier on my eyes, and allows my eyeballs to adjust quicker with the overall darker screen.
But, YMMV

[Jay]

Buy quality QR rings and a torque wrench. that way you can transfer it between rifles. I currently have mine set up for 3 rifles...T3x in 243, T1x in 17HMR and a T1x in .22.
Have culled deer with all 3 rifles while doing pest control. Just have to remember which program each rifle is zeroed in for....Bought a label maker......Labels on the rifle stocks remind me now

This is the mount I put mine on. Don’t need a torque wrench. Set the tension on the throw levers and it stays the same. If there’s minor variations between rails that require a tension adjustment, just remember how many “clicks” to move on the throw levers and return them back to the way they were for that rifle.

Also, remember which rail slots the mount goes on so it goes back in the same position. I take pictures of the mount location on each gun with my phone so I have it to refer to. I can also make notes on the pictures to remind me how many “clicks” and which direction to turn the lever adjustments if I need to. You could also make note of which program to use for that gun on the picture.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2626162354?pid=162354

[Gila]

I have an AGM Rattler TC 35-384. I wanted something that I can move back and forth between rifles. I have not shot with it yet, but I have moved it between rifles and it is easy to do so. I have nothing to compare it with as it is the first thermal I ever purchased or have used. It seems to work well to me, but for all I know it could be worthless next to something nicer. I do have a coyote coming around so maybe I will be able to give it a live fire test in the next few months.

I went with a flip mount for my Rattler-C V2 (I screwed up and said Raptor in my previous post. (The Raptor is the shift light on my ride.)) so I can quickly get it out of the way of my Trijicon LPVO, and/or easily remove it if need be.

ADM FTS Mount 2.jpg (36.08 KiB) Viewed 2100 times

[N454casull]

How big of a difference is it between a 320 vs 640 for the resolution?

[CPJ 2.0]

How big of a difference is it between a 320 vs 640 for the resolution?

320.




Some makers have sample images on their WWW. So you can make a side by each comparison. I saw it recently, don’t recall who it was though.

[Jay]

Don’t do 320. You won’t like it.

[Jay]

Actually, I’ll clarify. If you use a hi resolution thermal, it’s almost impossible to downgrade.

[Zsarvashere]

I went with a flip mount for my Rattler-C V2 (I screwed up and said Raptor in my previous post. (The Raptor is the shift light on my ride.)) so I can quickly get it out of the way of my Trijicon LPVO, and/or easily remove it if need be.

I just have a QD set to the height of the scopes on the rifles I plan on using it on. I did not envision a need for the flip mount but nice to know about it and keep it in mind if need be.