Guns & Outdoors Forum

Bigslug wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 2:11 pm I never flattened the tip of my finger with a hammer, so curved triggers are still OK for me. All my milsurp rifles have two-stage triggers, so pre-travel, NBD. Last I checked, the Glock trigger dingus is not made from an X-Acto knife blade, so I guess I'm good there too. It is, as they say, your money and your pistol, so have fun.

But If you want to go down the lawyerized avoidance of non-factory parts rabbit hole though, there's a fair argument to be made that the Glock trigger dingus is a factory safety feature, and swapping it out constitutes removing a factory safety. Since the trigger shoe pivots on the trigger pin, there's also a consideration of whether or not an aftermarket one - in "reducing pre-travel" - is holding the trigger bar further to the rear when the pistol is at rest, which would potentially get your other internal safeties closer to disengagement than they would otherwise be. Is the firing pin safety now lifted while the trigger is at rest? Is the horizontal "cruciform" portion of the trigger bar any closer to falling out of it's drop safety slot than with the factory shoe? Not saying yours does any of this, but I'd like to drop a lot of these aftermarket goodies into a factory cutaway gun to see what is actually happening inside.

Just sayin'. . .on a 1911, changing out the trigger for "feels" is merely replacing the button you push to actuate the parts that actually make the loud noise; on a Glock, there's a little more going on.

CPJ 2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:18 pm

Bigslug wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 2:11 pm I never flattened the tip of my finger with a hammer, so curved triggers are still OK for me. All my milsurp rifles have two-stage triggers, so pre-travel, NBD. Last I checked, the Glock trigger dingus is not made from an X-Acto knife blade, so I guess I'm good there too. It is, as they say, your money and your pistol, so have fun.

But If you want to go down the lawyerized avoidance of non-factory parts rabbit hole though, there's a fair argument to be made that the Glock trigger dingus is a factory safety feature, and swapping it out constitutes removing a factory safety. Since the trigger shoe pivots on the trigger pin, there's also a consideration of whether or not an aftermarket one - in "reducing pre-travel" - is holding the trigger bar further to the rear when the pistol is at rest, which would potentially get your other internal safeties closer to disengagement than they would otherwise be. Is the firing pin safety now lifted while the trigger is at rest? Is the horizontal "cruciform" portion of the trigger bar any closer to falling out of it's drop safety slot than with the factory shoe? Not saying yours does any of this, but I'd like to drop a lot of these aftermarket goodies into a factory cutaway gun to see what is actually happening inside.

Just sayin'. . .on a 1911, changing out the trigger for "feels" is merely replacing the button you push to actuate the parts that actually make the loud noise; on a Glock, there's a little more going on.

This still has a dingus. And I’d wager (without it in my hand) the actual travel on the dingus itself is longer than factory.

Safety is not lifted, from what I can tell. But I’ll have a closer look. I don’t really know if it DOES reduce pre travel, it may be marketing wank to lure in buyers. Which isn’t relevant to me anyhow. I wanted a flat trigger without a protruding dingus. Which is easily accomplished from the factory. But Glock.

Look. We know you’re a cro-magnon man with hairy knuckles, but some of prefer comfortable triggers.

Snobbish primadonnas? Yes. We love it. We scoff at milsurp triggers and those that adore them.


“Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!”

Justsomedude wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 4:32 pm Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

Wambli Ska wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 6:46 pm

Justsomedude wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 4:32 pm Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

Actually the one thing I noticed was that it allowed me to put my trigger finger (start my trigger press) lower on the trigger which as you said increases the distance to the fulcrum point and makes for a lighter and smoother press. Of course they’ll be different opinions on it but that just physics.

CPJ 2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 7:36 pm

Wambli Ska wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 6:46 pm

Justsomedude wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 4:32 pm Oh, Bigslug, it accomplishes a shorter pretravel without affecting the safeties by changing the fulcrum point or the distance between the trigger pivot and transfer bar pivot. I studied one a long time ago because I had the same question.

Actually the one thing I noticed was that it allowed me to put my trigger finger (start my trigger press) lower on the trigger which as you said increases the distance to the fulcrum point and makes for a lighter and smoother press. Of course they’ll be different opinions on it but that just physics.

Takes up less room also. Which isn’t a horrible issue for me with tiny -ish digits, but the more room the more better.

CPJ 2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:18 pm “Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!

shotgunshooter3 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 24, 2025 4:09 am

CPJ 2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:18 pm “Bu bu bu a REAL MARKSMAN can shoot around a bad trigger by gawd! Gobbless Saint Garand!

Ironically, every Garand I've shot and owned (two CMP examples) has had a GREAT trigger. Likewise for the M1A.