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.22 rifles to the herd. Idk what they’re worth but I figured for $250 otd for both I couldn’t go too wrong. “They’re for my grandkids”. Nudge, nudge, wink, wink.
The dark one is a Marlin Mod 81 DL. Peep sight is long gone. Forearm is split which someone “repaired” with 5 Phillips head deck screws Old enough that it doesn’t have a SN. I’ve found a stock on eBay but it says it’s for an “S” shaped bolt and mine is not so shaped. The metal one this one is kinda rough. Will try 0000 and Kroil and see what happens before getting any Oxpho.
The lighter one is a High Standard Sport King Special
Model A1041. It’s a semi automatic. It needs the complete rear sight assembly which I have found on Gun Parts.
BTW, I think is was JunkCollector who purchased a rifle a few months ago with cutouts like this HS. Someone used the term “gill gun”. Was this a common feature at one time?
Good scores!!! If you can’t find the stock you can remove the screws and drill/replace with thin wood dowels. Just epoxy the crack and dowels in place and refinish. Save yourself one step with oxpho paste on 0000 steel wool. It’ll melt the rust and old grease, dried oil etc. off and refinish in one step. Keep re-applying and rubbing until you reach the right color you want. Fast and good results.
Glad you mentioned that about using dowels. I was wondering if that would work.
The stock I found is $39. I’ve thought about maybe getting it and use this original stock as a stock refinishing experiment. Since it’s broke and has the screw holes in it.
Rugerfan wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2024 8:48 pm
I have found the rear sight assembly on Gun Parts. Should I get a set of brass punches or is steel ok?
I can get a set of steel punched from Lowe’s for $20. Brass punch set at Gun Parts is $31. Which is best to use?
Absolutely brass. BTW when I can’t find a brass punch handy I take a brass case like a .223, hammer the neck flat, fold it and hammer it again which work hardens the brass. Presto, instant and expedient brass punch usually strung enough to drift a sight and such. I’ve done it with a rock at the range
Rugerfan wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2024 8:43 pm
Glad you mentioned that about using dowels. I was wondering if that would work.
The stock I found is $39. I’ve thought about maybe getting it and use this original stock as a stock refinishing experiment. Since it’s broke and has the screw holes in it.
That’s a great idea. BTW if the holes are evenly spaced you can get brass screws to replace the ugly ones. Epoxy in place and if there is enough metal on the screw head when you sand the stock down the slot will go away leaving a pretty brass dot on the wood. You can even make pretty “Indian” patterns like to old brass tacks they used in the 1800s.
Rugerfan wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2024 8:43 pm
Glad you mentioned that about using dowels. I was wondering if that would work.
The stock I found is $39. I’ve thought about maybe getting it and use this original stock as a stock refinishing experiment. Since it’s broke and has the screw holes in it.
That’s a great idea. BTW if the holes are evenly spaced you can get brass screws to replace the ugly ones. Epoxy in place and if there is enough metal on the screw head when you sand the stock down the slot will go away leaving a pretty brass dot on the wood. You can even make pretty “Indian” patterns like to old brass tacks they used in the 1800s.
No rhyme or reason to screw placement. Plus. I found 2-3 nails in the forearm.
JunkCollector wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2024 11:34 pm
It was me.
Yup....Gill gun....click clacker.
Real fun to shoot
Fire it and don't release the trigger and the bolt stays back until you do.
A LGS here I convinces to part with the stock on mine.
Who ever did it had talent
Is yours a High Standard too? I’ll have to try that on mine to see what happens!
These 2 were not out on display. I asked the clerk if they had any old .22s in the back. I figured they probably had a few old single shots. I was surprised when he brought out those 2.
I'm guessing if they used that many screws, the split goes all the way into the barrel channel.
I'd be inclined to pull the screws, wedge the split open, squeeze in a lot of Acraglas dyed black, clamp it and let the squeeze out sit until dry. Scrape it off after. It won't ever be new again, and blackening the Acraglas will blend in with the grain/pores better than brown will match the rest.
That's the functional repair. You could drill the screw holes for dowel diameter to the depth of the middle of the barrel channel, and then use a smaller bit to drill a connecting squeeze-out hole in the middle of the channel for the extra Acraglas (again black) to flow out of. Try to seat your dowel with the grain direction matching the stock and leave it long until the goo sets. Odds are the dowels are gonna be light colored birch, so probably your best bet will be to use some aggressively dark stain after you've sanded them flush.
WWJMBD?
I believe we should stand on Ceremony. . . while our friends handcuff the sanctimonious little prick and take him away.
Marlin definitely went through a period of heavier-than-needed barrels, but I've never met one that wouldn't deliver the goods. The rifle is worth your time.
The real question is if the previous owner glued it when he screwed it, & unless you can see glue in the split line, you probably won't be able to tell until you pull the screws out.. As to addressing the nails, the holes may be small enough to make a go of using filler putty, but it's also a matter of how much damage gets caused taking them out. Doweling may be the better approach there too. The gun'll have some polka-dots, but it's a legit technique. I've seen it on a lot of FInnish Mosins and a number of SMLE's. Maybe service repairs, but more likely as a method of dealing with knots in an otherwise serviceable military stock blank.
As for the gills in the other one. . .my only guess is that it was done to let fouling escape. We've all seen the semi-auto .22 with the layer of carbon building up on the left receiver wall opposite the ejection port. You could treat it like an AR and keep the bolt heavily lubed - the crud would then flow back out the gills. No other reason for it I can think of
WWJMBD?
I believe we should stand on Ceremony. . . while our friends handcuff the sanctimonious little prick and take him away.
I can’t see any evidence of glue. The stock I have found online is for an earlier variant of mine. I’ve messaged the seller to see if he knows if it’ll fit my action.
I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thank you.
Bigslug wrote: ↑Fri Mar 15, 2024 10:30 am
I'm guessing if they used that many screws, the split goes all the way into the barrel channel.
I'd be inclined to pull the screws, wedge the split open, squeeze in a lot of Acraglas dyed black, clamp it and let the squeeze out sit until dry. Scrape it off after. It won't ever be new again, and blackening the Acraglas will blend in with the grain/pores better than brown will match the rest.
That's the functional repair. You could drill the screw holes for dowel diameter to the depth of the middle of the barrel channel, and then use a smaller bit to drill a connecting squeeze-out hole in the middle of the channel for the extra Acraglas (again black) to flow out of. Try to seat your dowel with the grain direction matching the stock and leave it long until the goo sets. Odds are the dowels are gonna be light colored birch, so probably your best bet will be to use some aggressively dark stain after you've sanded them flush.
I agree with Big but I never use acraglass or dye the epoxy because it makes it very visible. I’ve repaired a lot of cracks on stocks and regular clear 2 part epoxy after curing clamped together usually makes the crack disappears when you refinish the wood. Just an alternative way of doing things. Neither one is wrong
I’d glue the stock back together. If the split is clean and you can get a good joint, plain old wood glue will work as good as any epoxy. If there’s any space that needs filled in the joint, epoxy is your friend.
There is zero chance you’ll get anything to match color wise, so if you use dowels don’t sweat it. If you don’t want people to see the repair, paint the stock camo and move on.
“The shepherd slaughters more of the flock than the wolf ever will.”
I've repaired a number of "Bubba's Guns" and have learned a few tricks. First this is not a collector's piece, only a shooter. Second, the stock is probably birch, it's a pain to refinish well and the dings and dents will be hard to remove. Don't try to make it a beauty queen when a plain Jane will do! A little makeup on a plain Jane will make her look like Jane Fonda! Remove the screws and nails. Open the cracks carefully, inject good wood glue with a syringe, drill and install dowel rods where needed, then clamp it for the night. Smooth the dimples, dents and scratches with good wood filler, sand it, then spray paint the stock black. There are options for the metal also. I salvaged a Savage 22 mag from the scrap bin that I posted here, it looks and shoots great! Hell you could paint it pink! Or maybe one of those fancy textures finishes like Zee's guns
I did some quick Fleabay research. Best I can tell, the "S-shaped" bolt handles were earlier and were curved inward, which necessitated a trench to be routed out of the side of the stock that the later stocks don't have.
My guess is that later bolts in older stocks are just going to have a lot more air surrounding them.
Birch and walnut both appeared to be options.
WWJMBD?
I believe we should stand on Ceremony. . . while our friends handcuff the sanctimonious little prick and take him away.
CPJ 2.0 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 16, 2024 12:14 am
I’d glue the stock back together. If the split is clean and you can get a good joint, plain old wood glue will work as good as any epoxy. If there’s any space that needs filled in the joint, epoxy is your friend.
There is zero chance you’ll get anything to match color wise, so if you use dowels don’t sweat it. If you don’t want people to see the repair, paint the stock camo and move on.
I agree
I recently tested several wood glues before re-gluing outdoor chairs.
Best I found is Titebond III which is waterproof when set
I glued a split bamboo cutting board for a test that has been through the dishwasher at least a dozen times and is rock solid.
Hands down above Gorilla wood glue and anything Elmer’s
Long working time and requires clamping until set
Excess easily cleaned up with a razor scraper when set.
Since this is just a .22 and not a large caliber, I had started thinking about removing the screws and nails and using wood glue. I looked at the gun my closely this evening. The crack is looooong. From the fore end to almost the trigger guard. I may take the screws out tomorrow and just see what happens.
Old enough that it doesn’t have a SN. I’ve found a stock on eBay but it says it’s for an “S” shaped bolt and mine is not so shaped. The metal one this one is kinda rough. Will try 0000 and Kroil and see what happens before getting any Oxpho. 
