I've got another ML Project

[Freezer]

A co-worker saw the TC Hawken I assembled for another co-worker and asked if I'd repair the ML he inherited from his uncle. Gun nut and fool that I am, I said yes. It is a CVA 54 cal Mountain Rifle. It appears to be in good functioning condition but has been used hard through the years. There is some pitting and surface rust on the barrel. The rib, trigger guard, thimbles and butt plate appear to be a pewter spray finish and the nose cap is pewter. From my research, I believe it is an early Spanish production with a USA maple stock. The patch box and side plate are not original. Now I have to decide how I want to proceed, do I strip the entire gun and reblue it or clean it up and rust blue all the parts except the pewter end cap.

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[CPJ 2.0]

Brown it

[Freezer]

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Here's the Hawken

[Justsomedude]

Rust blue would make it easier to deal with the pitting. You won't even have to try to get it out, just boil it as is and keep forcing it to rust.

[Wambli Ska]

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This is Jeremiah Johnson’s original Hawken. One of these days I will be looking to reproduce this gun…

[Zee]

IMG_0659.jpeg

This is Jeremiah Johnson’s original Hawken. One of these days I will be looking to reproduce this gun…

So many guns I’d just love to have but don’t have the time to justify.

[Wambli Ska]

IMG_0659.jpeg

This is Jeremiah Johnson’s original Hawken. One of these days I will be looking to reproduce this gun…

So many guns I’d just love to have but don’t have the time to justify.

I understand that feeling very well my friend….

[Justsomedude]

IMG_0659.jpeg

This is Jeremiah Johnson’s original Hawken. One of these days I will be looking to reproduce this gun…

That's beautiful. I never really cared for the Hawkens until I just saw that one.

[Wambli Ska]

IMG_0659.jpeg

This is Jeremiah Johnson’s original Hawken. One of these days I will be looking to reproduce this gun…

That's beautiful. I never really cared for the Hawkens until I just saw that one.

It just says, where’s the grizz…

[Freezer]

Well, I started this project yesterday. I have all the metal stripped and will start bluing today. I found out why some folks don't like CVA, it took a lot of filing to get the cast humps out of the metal, the butt plate has dimples and an indented line where it was turned down. The barrel was easy to strip, and I got most of the pitting out of it. I've been flipping the coin on browning or bluing and need an opinion. I have Oxphblue and Birchhwod Casey's Plumb brown. They are both applied in the same way. can I get as good a finish with Casey's as I do with Ophoblue?

I'll need to replace some of the screws that have been buggered and some that just don't match.

BTW, my research says it is a Douglas barrel and this one was made in the USA, not Spain.

[CPJ 2.0]

I’ve had good results with the BC brown.
It’s a BIG contrast to their garbage blue

[Freezer]

I decided to continue the ML project again this weekend. I'll start by saying I haven't been impressed with Casey's products in the past but their Plumb Blue works. I cleaned the metal a few weeks ago and set the project down. Getting all the paint off was a chore, and the castings aren't the best. I removed as many of the casting pits as I could. Getting the paint out of the crevices in the trigger guard took time. I watched a few you-tube videos on browning and decided to combine their methods. After degreasing I heated the metal then applied the solution. I let it dry, buffed with steel wool, then neutralized with ammonia window cleaner. After 8 to 10 coats, they have a rich plumb/blue finish. I neutralized with window cleaner, reheated the metal, then applied a liberal coat of oil. I'll let them cure tonight, but they look great! I'll do the barrel tomorrow[

attachment=0]IMG_20240203_183325312.jpg[/attachment].

Thanks CPJ

[bullsi1911]

I was going to suggest hot pink DuraCoat, but I guess the traditional way works as well

[CPJ 2.0]

I decided to continue the ML project again this weekend. I'll start by saying I haven't been impressed with Casey's products in the past but their Plumb Blue works. I cleaned the metal a few weeks ago and set the project down. Getting all the paint off was a chore, and the castings aren't the best. I removed as many of the casting pits as I could. Getting the paint out of the crevices in the trigger guard took time. I watched a few you-tube videos on browning and decided to combine their methods. After degreasing I heated the metal then applied the solution. I let it dry, buffed with steel wool, then neutralized with ammonia window cleaner. After 8 to 10 coats, they have a rich plumb/blue finish. I neutralized with window cleaner, reheated the metal, then applied a liberal coat of oil. I'll let them cure tonight, but they look great! I'll do the barrel tomorrow[

attachment=0]IMG_20240203_183325312.jpg[/attachment].

Thanks CPJ

Do you mean plumb brown?

[Freezer]

Lisdexsia!

[CPJ 2.0]

Yeah the brown really does work good. Blue you may as well be using a magic marker.

[Wambli Ska]

That looks great!!!

[Freezer]

I don't know about the magic marker? I tried a few cold blue and semi cold (Dicropan) systems. Take your time with them and a heat gun, and you'll get a good finish. There is one better, my late gunsmith friend suggested. Dicropan is best for old SxSs.

[Freezer]

It's finished, the pics suck, but the project is complete, and it came out well. I'll give it to my coworker this week, I think I honored his uncle's memory.

[Freezer]

It's finished, the pics suck, but the project is complete, and it came out well. I'll give it to my coworker this week, I think I honored his uncle's memory.[

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[Chiro1989]

There would be a line at our deer camp to touch that off.

[Wambli Ska]

Nice work!!!

[sakodude]

You have a talent! that turned out fantastic.

[PFD45]

Wow! Your co-worker has a great friend!

[Diver43]

Very Nice work, well done for sure