Long boi bullet mold

[CPJ 2.0]

230 grain .308 what for use in Z’s favorite .300 blackout.
Gonna need some sub sonic rounds, hopefully soon. Not soon enough, but we will see how long it takes the AFT to get the permission slip back for my can.

[CPJ 2.0]

Silencerco Omrga 300, for those that will ask.

[Zee]

:Eunic:

[CPJ 2.0]

:Eunic:

So is the .308. If you want .308 performance you should just down load the .300 Win mag.

[Zee]

:Eunic:

So is the .308. If you want .308 performance you should just down load the .300 Win mag.

One nut is better than none.

[Zee]

Good looking mold, though.

[CPJ 2.0]

You may get to see it in action. SCIENCE!
Actually, thats a hell of an idea. Syncro shot. Me in the side, you in the head. BET!

[Zee]

You may get to see it in action. SCIENCE!
Actually, thats a hell of an idea. Syncro shot. Me in the side, you in the head. BET!

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[Bigslug]

Watching with great interest. . .

The general conventional wisdom leans against boat tails for cast, with the idea of presenting the pressure from your charge with a full-width, barrel-supported seal against gas blow-by, flame-cutting, and leading. The caveat here is that you're gonna be subsonic and pooping the bullet out at only about a thousand fps.

Softer bullets will expand at those slower speeds, but then again, you don't want your boat tail totally smooshed by the shock of ignition. A harder bullet will resist that, but then you're hunting with a non-expanding spitzer point.

With larger cases, and charges that don't completely fill them, some guys will use a pinch of Dacron stuffing to deal with the extra volume, and it also acts as sort of a gas check. . .but. . .more crap in the bore to end up in your suppressor.

Sooo. . .some apparent contradictions to navigate. Eager to see where this goes.

Would suggest Lyman #2 alloy as a starting control. Definitely will not expand at the velocities that will be involved here, but unlikely to base-deform at pistol pressures and should show you what accuracy is attainable. White Label Lubes 45/45/10 is one of the tumble lubes of choice these days - recommend it highly.

No idea on propellant. Given the small case and 230 grain pill, I'd be tempted to treat it like a .45ACP and use five grains of Bullseye, which will burn up clean before it gets to your can. But if this is for an AR instead of a bolt gun. . .no idea. None.

[CPJ 2.0]

Alloy will be CPJ number 69. AKA whatever Walmart used for wheel weights in their semi trucks.

The boat tail is dumb, but not for the reason you mentioned. That’s an interesting note, however. I think it’s dumb because it’s a sub 100 yard affair. In my case, likely sub 50.

I’m going to try trail boss powder, because I have a lot of it. I’ve seen some mention of using H110, but haven’t dug in just yet.

Main purpose will be after hours vermin control. Cousin has an armadillo problem. Should work for that. I’m hoping being king they will want to tumble when they hit.

I plan on water quenching these, because I can see a high failure rate when they drop from the mold and hit the towel while still soft. Maybe the water will eliminate that. They will probably get powder coated, maybe tumble lube.

[breamfisher]

My old boss used to thump 'dillos with a .22 short, regularly. Body and head shots.

A .30 cal. hole will take care of them, just hit them in the right spot.

[CPJ 2.0]

My old boss used to thump 'dillos with a .22 short, regularly. Body and head shots.

A .30 cal. hole will take care of them, just hit them in the right spot.

Accuracy with an “inexpensive “ thermal scope is difficult. I am relying on weight and length to give me more humps. I won’t be picky where I hit them with and don’t care if they crawl off somewhere and take a while to die. They are invasive and destroying his property. I also enjoy when Siri gets what I say wrong and I won’t change it.

[breamfisher]

You'll do fine, sunshine.


BTW, a 'dillo hit with a 150 gr. '06 at 25 yds. will split and shatter.

[shotgunshooter3]

The only thing I have used to take out an armadillo was a Toyota Tacoma, but that's at least a little bit slower than a .300 BO sub...

[Japhy]

Suppressed 300 BO with night vision would be fun to shoot. If I had one I restraint would be difficult. reloading and casting bullets may be the way to go. Maybe a brass catcher as well.

[Bigslug]

Alloy will be CPJ number 69. AKA whatever Walmart used for wheel weights in their semi trucks. . .

I plan on water quenching these, because I can see a high failure rate when they drop from the mold and hit the towel while still soft. Maybe the water will eliminate that. They will probably get powder coated, maybe tumble lube.

I've been dropping to air cool on a ratty towel inside the cardboard lid from a paper ream box for a long time - it's not an issue.

What the water quench will do for the classic clip-on car wheel-weight alloy is crank the hardness up from about 12-14 BHN (which is fine for magnum revolver speeds) to something up in the 20's. Might be good for preventing ass-end deformation.

H110/W296 - yeah, maybe. It is the original M1 Carbine propellant - probably not out of place.

[Gila]

The only thing I have used to take out an armadillo was a Toyota Tacoma, but that's at least a little bit slower than a .300 BO sub...

A ,22 works just fine...

[CPJ 2.0]

Cast a few just to see how they would go. Works fine.

[Bigslug]

Welcome to the Dark Side!

A touch of additional tin, and maybe some more heat in the pot and mold, those little wrinkles will disappear. Enjoy your Mad Science!

[CPJ 2.0]

Welcome to the Dark Side!

A touch of additional tin, and maybe some more heat in the pot and mold, those little wrinkles will disappear. Enjoy your Mad Science!

That’s probably….10-12 bullets cast. Mold wasn’t even really hot.

As far as adding tin….are you mad?

Whatever the wheel weights are, is what the bullets become.
I run two recipes.
Pure lead.
Wheel weights.
There ain’t no special sauce round here.

[Bigslug]

Ok. . .more heat then.

[CPJ 2.0]

Ok. . .more heat then.

So what temp do you run? I had the controller set at 700. Before the controller I cranked it to 11, and rolled it back when stuff got too hot. Did it by feel. That’s only like the second or their time I’ve used the PID controller and I’m not sure where the happy point is.

[jwv2023]

I have a few questions for you. When casting, are the bullets a consistent weight or do you weigh them and adjust the weight? Is there a certain velocity you load to keep the bullet from running over the rifling? I would think that an alloy like antimony would help prevent leading.
One more question, "I also enjoy when Siri gets what I say wrong and I won’t change it." Are you referring to the term "BBC" ?

[CPJ 2.0]

I have a few questions for you. When casting, are the bullets a consistent weight or do you weigh them and adjust the weight? Is there a certain velocity you load to keep the bullet from running over the rifling? I would think that an alloy like antimony would help prevent leading.
One more question, "I also enjoy when Siri gets what I say wrong and I won’t change it." Are you referring to the term "BBC" ?

Weight isn’t adjustable, save for an alloy change and there is some variation in weight due to different temps.
But it’s all insignificant in the grand scheme. That’s a 230 grain mold. It may drop 229, it may drop 231. Consistently dropping a weight is more important than the actual weight. Some people obsess about it , cull bullets by weight, etc. Not me. Cast bullets for me have always been a cheap way to get plinking ammo. Short range affair, precision isn’t of utmost importance. And a lot of times the weapon they are fired from wouldn’t be the best weapon to try and wring out the last 1/8” better group anyway. Typically my casting was for handguns. For this, I may actually do a little load work because I have a better platform.

As to speed, you’re typically safe in the 1500 FPS range with almost any decent bullet lube. There’s many rabbit holes to jump in on that topic however.

As to the BBC, no, Sirir and I know exactly what I’m saying.

[CPJ 2.0]

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